Bmw - Brake Hose - L=305Mm (To 11/00) - 34322331884

A couple of weeks ago while finishing up an 850 mile trip with my 2001 BMW R1100S I stopped for gas about 135 miles from home. After gassing up I notice some fine droplets of oil on the top surfaces of the bodywork. After returning home safely I went to move the bike into the garage and happened to pull the front brake lever. I was immediately confronted with a fine shower of what turned out to be DOT 4 brake fluid. I was able to pinpoint the leak as a pinhole in the #1 flexible brake hose that connects the master cylinder on the handlebar to the front brake hydraulic circuit fitting at the frame neck. I was lucky on 2 counts, the brakes never did completely fail and the fluid did not damage the finish on the bodywork. This motorcycle has BMW 2 channel ABS brake control so requires removal of both the plastic bodywork and the fuel tank as the brake system bleeding process starts at the ABS pump fittings under the fuel tank. Having ridden motorcycles since 1965 I do my own maintenance and repair work so this job did not present a big challenge to me. Once the parts are removed changing the brake line is fairly straight forward. You need to observe which end fitting attaches to master cylinder and frame fitting and it's always a good idea to photograph the original installation with a digital camera to make sure you route the new hose and adjacent handlebar wiring correctly. Also make certain the new hose is identical in length as there are a couple of different versions for different handlebar setups. Be careful not to get brake fluid on painted surfaces as brake fluid attacks paint. Make sure copper sealing washers are in good condition and get reinstalled correctly, one on each side of the banjo fitting. If sealing washers or banjo bolts are not in perfect condition, replace them, your safety is at stake. Make sure you use fresh new brake fluid of the specified type, in this case DOT 4. Referring to the BMW service manual the banjo fitting screws get torqued to 18nm with a clicker torque wrench. My motorcycle is equipped with Kirby's speed bleeders to expedite changing brake fluid regularly, a must for motorcycles, especially if equipped with ABS brakes. The rest of the job entails bleeding the hydraulic brake system using the specified brake fluid, service manual procedure and either a MityVac vacuum bleeder or similar equipment if not using the speed bleeders. Once you have good firm brake feel at the handlebar control and the master cylinder is topped up to the correct level the removed tank and bodywork can be reinstalled. Make sure you are satisfied with brake feel at the handlebar control before putting the tank and bodywork back on or you may have to tear it all back off to get to the ABS pump bleed screw.